In recent years, the interest of the watch industry in high-order complex functions has shifted from special functions or all-in-one large complex functions to the ultra-thin field. There are at least three record-breaking ultra-thin watches, and other less-thin but also topical thin watches have more. Frankly speaking, many of these ultra-thin watches have been reduced to thin and thin. The goal of the watch factory’s efforts is only to make the finished product can be digitally next city. As for the comfort of such a watch , Aesthetic proportions, and even durability or not seem to be among their considerations.
Automatic winding / hour, minute display / day, night, moon phase display, perpetual calendar function / diameter 32.00mm / thickness 2.89mm / 37 stone / shock frequency 19,800vph Wheel, bridgeless perpetual calendar module
The Royal Oak RD # 2 ultra-thin perpetual calendar launched by AUDEMARS PIGUET is also among the three record-breaking models we mentioned at the beginning. It is the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar, but the difference is that according to According to Giulio Papi, the APRP principal, when they planned this, they didn’t intend to break any records. In contrast, most of the specifications they set were based on practical considerations. Papi said that what they want to do is a perpetual calendar that does not look thick even when wearing a shirt alone (without a jacket). According to their calculations, the thickness of a watch model that meets this requirement is almost 6mm, so one At first they set a target of 5.9mm. The problem was that after adding technical considerations, they found that the thickness of 5.9mm would cause problems in the durability of the finished product. Therefore, they finally corrected the number to 6.3mm. This was for them. A reasonable thickness that allows for both strength and clothing.
RD # 2’s Cal. 5133 is not a one-piece native movement. It is based on the 2120 movement like the AP’s famous ultra-thin perpetual calendar. The new part is mainly in the perpetual calendar module. It is made for the 2120. The only modification is to enlarge the substrate from 28 to 32mm, so that it has more space to disperse the vertically stacked perpetual calendar parts to the same plane, and the thickness of the edge of the substrate is also thinned from 1.4 to 1.0mm. Free up thickness to accommodate parts, and nothing more.
The movement reduced the structure of the perpetual calendar module from three layers to one layer. In the process, the path of many gear trains and the shape of parts need to be modified.
AP’s last concept watch, RD # 1, also did not develop a new movement. The special feature of the watch is mainly its bottom cover structure. The movement itself only slightly changes the existing model. Maybe some purists seem to think that this kind of high-end research and development still needs to make a new movement, but in fact, according to the results, the sound effect of the RD # 1 three-question function has reached a historically rare Excellent. The thickness of RD # 2 also broke the world record. For Papi, it is not the focus of the original movement. What is really important is to achieve the set goals under the premise of stable movement of the movement, so he focuses here. It is the stability of these existing models that has passed the test. As for the original, it is not his primary consideration.
Flatten the structure
As mentioned earlier, the 5133 is equipped with a perpetual calendar module on the 2120 movement, and the method of making it thin is basically flattening the originally vertically stacked parts to the same layer, thereby reducing the thickness. In the process of planarizing the structure like this, the path of many gear trains and the shape of parts need to be modified. The most obvious example is the lever connecting the central date wheel, date wheel, and 48-month cam. Generally, it can take the shortest straight line. Distance, but in order to form a vertical structure across these trains, it is here made into a large U-shape, bypassing the trains from extremely circuitous routes, so that the connection between each other can be in the same branch Finished in layers.
Single-layered 48-month cam
There are 48-month cams that modify the shape for planarization. It is the most critical part in the perpetual calendar mechanism. It is driven by the date wheel. The number of days in each month is defined by the grooves with different depths. 28, 29, 30 or 31 days; the ordinary 48-month cam will divide the teeth and depth groove of the date wheel into two layers, but this one directly makes the teeth on the edge of the depth groove, so here we can see its In 48 months, a thin circle of teeth was generated around the cam. This approach is equivalent to integrating the upper and lower structures on the same layer, thereby reducing the thickness of the module.
The 5133 perpetual calendar module directly treats the face plate as a large bridge plate, and covers all parts at once from the front cover, thereby eliminating the thickness of the movement bridge plate.
Replace the bridge with a face plate
What we see through the bottom cover is the part of the basic movement 2120. The perpetual calendar module is configured on the side of the faceplate, and here it is related to another thin method. The 5133 perpetual calendar module hardly uses any bridge plate to fix parts. Here it directly treats the face plate as a large bridge plate, and fixes all the parts at once from the front cover. Generally, the thickness of the face plate is about 0.3 to 0.4 mm, and the face plate of RD # 2 is 0.6 mm. The shape of the bottom part is thinned to 0.3 mm to achieve its strength as a bridge. In addition, in order to reduce the heel, The friction between the parts also has higher requirements for the smoothness of the inside when forming.
Exterior-movement in one
The design of external components (panels) as movement parts (bridge plates) sounds similar to Piaget’s 900P and Ultimate Concept. The bottom cover is used as the substrate, but in fact AP itself was the first in history to be launched in the late 1980s. An automatic tourbillon watch has already adopted a similar structure, which is still from their own context. As mentioned earlier, the face plate has special requirements for the smoothness of the inside. In fact, its yield rate is almost in the range of 15 pieces and only 10 can be used. However, because the parts of the perpetual calendar move very slowly, the actual The impact on the movement of the movement may not be really great.
The focus of RD # 2 is ultra-thin, and this is exactly the field that this Royal Oak is good at, so it is very reasonable to launch here
Interpreting ultra-thin with our RO
When choosing the RD # 1 super watch, AP chose to take the lead in the Royal Oak concept series (later also made the Jules series). In addition to focusing on the ‘concept’ here, it may also be because of the super The exterior structure of the questionnaire requires a larger size. The concept series fits this point. Relatively, the focus of RD # 2 this time is ultra-thin. This is exactly the field that the Royal Oak is good at, so it is very reasonable to launch it here. Although the concept table is linked, from the design point of view, the brand’s consideration of actual use is quite thorough, so it should not be too difficult to enter the market.
Royal Oak RD # 2
950 platinum material / 5133 self-winding movement / hours, minutes, date, week, month, leap year display / perpetual calendar function / moon phase display / day and night display / sapphire crystal, transparent bottom cover / waterproof 20 meters / table diameter 41mm- —