Netizens who frequent the Watch House may find that why so many people like Rolex, but rarely see Rolex tasting articles, of course, this is by no means because Rolex has everyone Familiar with the point that there is no need for publicity, and it is mainly because Rolex has always been mysterious marketing method. Rolex never borrows watches for media shooting. Even new watches borrowed through other channels are not allowed during shooting. Remove the original film, so there always seems to be a sense of distance. But in order to meet the increasing demands of netizens for Rolex articles, as an editor, I can only contribute the GMT-MasterII that I just purchased to share some of my opinions on Rolex with you, and welcome all netizens to leave a message. Let us progress together.
With the advent of the jet era in the 1950s and the rapid development of international routes, aircraft need to cross several time zones in a short period of time. Pilots need to know the time of different places on the earth (such as the time of departure and destination, local time). And Greenwich reference time), Rolex launched Greenwich watches in response to this demand, and has become the designated watch for several airlines, including the well-known Pan Am. The need to know the time of different places on the earth at the same time is not only required by the pilots, but also by the watch and cultural messengers who often exchange between China and Switzerland. This is the fundamental reason why I choose GMT (the function of the water ghosts) It wasn’t used until I did deep dive training.) Although it is a digital age, getting time from a watch is still the easiest way.
Golden Yacht Master II 116681
Red gold ceramic ring Daytona 116515 LN
New explorer 214270
New Explorer II 216570
Although there are 20 series of Oyster watches according to the classification method on the Rolex website, I still like to refer to these sports Oyster watches as professional Oyster series. This series is the most discussed series and the most popular. It’s easy to confuse the series of members who do n’t know who to choose. The members of this series are all venomous and nicknamed loudly, including Probe One, Probe Two, Green Needle (GMT collectively), Lightning Needle (Milguass collectively), Ghost King, Various ghosts (collectively referred to as submarines), Di (collectively named Cosmograph Daytona), Y1 (Yacht Masters) and Y2 (Yacht Masters II).
‘Green Ghost’ 116610 LV
Submarine Calendar Type ‘Nigger’ 116610 LN
As a watchmaker, when I face these 9 King Kong, I think the same way as the majority of netizens, weigh the pros and cons, and ca n’t sleep at night, but in the end I use the exclusion method to choose, Di, Y1 and Y2 over budget; Detective one did not pull away; Detective two did not abandon ceramic circle; Lightning needle test is not good to discard; Ghost King is too thick to discard; In the end, only nigger, green ghost, green needle and blue black circle are left, green ghost and Rolex Logo green The colors are different; although niggas are cool, they are not practically discarded with green needles.
GMT-Maeter II Blue and Black Circle 116710 BLNR
Facing the blue and black circle, although it is the latest model and the technology is complicated, I have liked the color of black and green since childhood, and in the era of the red needle, I always hoped that Rolex would produce a green needle. The black circle with a formal dress is also more solemn. In the end, I chose the green needle. If the black and green circle is out this year, I will definitely change it! The above experience can be used as a reference for friends who are still struggling.
As a watchmaker, I was more rational and objective when choosing watches. The reason why I chose Rolex was not because of following the trend or listening to people around me, but because of my rolex Rolex from 18 years old to now Understand, after so many years of understanding, what impressed me most about Rolex was that all of its technical indicators strictly implemented the industry’s highest standards or even exceeded them.
This lets us start with the case. All Rolex models except Cellini are using an oyster case. After more than 80 years, there have not been any major changes, but in some details The corresponding fine-tuning has been done in accordance with the changes of the times, so that we think that professional watches should look like this, so no matter which brand is going to launch sports watches, you can see more or less oyster-like shadow In the end, it turned out that the more the model with no major change in appearance, the more popular it is. Another successful case is Panerai.
In addition to the classic shape, the main thing is the material itself. At present, only Rolex’s steel uses 904L austenitic stainless steel. There are two types of stainless steel in the world. One is austenite, and the other is martensite. Martensitic stainless steel is extremely hard because it is magnetic and has a high carbon content. Austenitic stainless steel is often used to make containers because it is not magnetic and has excellent stability. Of course, there are also many models of austenitic stainless steel, such as common 304, 309, 316, 316L, etc. In addition to Rolex, other watch brands Both use 316L stainless steel, and the 904 steel known as King of Steel seems to have not used this material in other industries except Rolex. In other words, if you want to have this unique material, Rolex is the only way Although gold is more valuable than 904 steel, it has much less access to gold.
What good is this steel? From a composition point of view, any stainless steel is an alloy of chromium, nickel, molybdenum and iron. The difference between 904 steel is that 2% copper is added. Although we cannot prove what will happen after adding copper, after factual demonstration, 904 steel does More resistant to abrasion and corrosion, and can withstand 23 refurbishments. According to a media person who has visited the Rolex Watch Factory, Rolex’s inspection of this material is very strict. Previously, when Rolex inspected a steel smelt that had just been smelted, it found that one of the steel ingots had trachoma. Contains a small amount of titanium, so immediately check with the steel mill. The reply from the steel mill was that indeed, a batch of titanium alloys had been smelted before refining this batch of steel wealth. This trachoma should be caused by the steel furnace being not cleaned. The entire batch of steel ingots was re-smelted. Although we can’t tell the difference between 904 steel and other stainless steels with the naked eye, and the cost is three times that of 316L stainless steel, Rolex has never changed since the first use of 904 steel.
The Rolex Oyster case has been fine-tuned for more than 80 years. The bottom edge of the side of the case has been changed from a straight line to a slight arc. The contact between the lugs and the bracelet is also more integrated. In fact, Rolex It attaches great importance to ergonomics. Although the weight of the watch is not light, it will feel that the weight is quite decomposed after being brought on. It does not feel heavy or fall down at all. The longer you take it, the more you feel it is already Part of your wrist.
The crown can be said to be the most important part of our communication with the watch. It depends on it when adjusting the time and the winding chain. Rolex knows this, so Rolex’s crowns have always been known as Yamato. Although the automatic watch can There is no need to wind it by hand, but when you whim up to wind it up, you will feel very satisfied, because you find that your labor is rewarding. Unlike some watches, you twist it several times and you can show the needle. Not driven, and Rolex took a look, it feels very real.
In addition, we see 3 dots under the big crown on the crown, which proves that this watch is 3 locks. Although this watch officially claims to be 100 meters waterproof, but because of the 3 locks, its waterproof depth is actually It is the same 300 meters as the water ghost, which shows the kindness of Rolex!
After talking about the case, let’s talk about the most exciting bezel of this watch. The ceramic word ring officially called Cerachrom by Rolex gives me the biggest feeling is that the thief is bright, good, and not afraid of scratching. If you put GMT and Tanji together, you will find that Tanji is so low-key. Rolex’s ceramicization process began in 2005. In order to make this ceramic word circle appear in the most perfect form, Rolex can be said to be painstaking, first of all To heat the ceramic to 1500 degrees, harden and purify it, and then engrav the required digital contour on the ceramic whose hardness seems to be comparable to diamond.
Then use the precise arrangement of atoms to strike the entire ring with gold or platinum (platinum in the ceramic ring of this watch) to combine gold and ceramic into one, and finally polish until the gold in the remaining numbers is always combined, It only takes 40 hours to finish this process. In addition, we know that the ceramic is twice as large as the finished product before firing, so the precise control of the shrinkage ratio is also a major difficulty.
GMT II was fortunate to be the first Rolex watch to be fitted with this circle. I chose GMT because it has the most numbers on it. Of course, the watch is all gold, so from that year, I I began to look forward to the appearance of all-steel watches. In 2006, a gold model was launched. In 2007, the all-steel model was finally released. Although it was launched, I was still young that year and made it the first choice. I now I found that I am still very specific. After 6 years, my love for it has never faded, but I still prefer it after I have it.
From the ceramicization process of this watch, it is not difficult to find a rule that Rolex starts with an all-gold watch every time it makes technical innovations. It takes 3 years for all materials to evolve, but there are exceptions. I thought last year There will be a golden ceramic di, and you can see all-steel ceramic di this year. Who would have expected a platinum chestnut di last year. If nothing unexpected, everyone will see all-steel ceramic di next year.
By the way, this is the 18 original films on this watch, and two were thrown away by the master when the watch was cut. According to legend, the metal luster of the film just uncovered is like the first exposure in the morning. Each watch will only appear once. How to refurbish it later and how to make up the film are not counted. Whoever unveiled it, who it is, everyone knows this! Because Rolex needs to say too much, everyone is too tired to watch it all at once, so I will talk about the dial and movement in the next episode, so stay tuned! (Text / picture watch house Mao Zhuang)